From rich-kar–(at)–orldnet.att.net Thu Jan 1 12:01:03 CST 1998
Article: 78234 of alt.guitar.amps
Path: geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!news-peer.sprintlink.net!news.sprintlink.net!Sprint!worldnet.att.net!newsadm
From: Rich Koerner
Newsgroups: alt.guitar.amps
Subject: Re: replace SF glued baffle?
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 07:01:31 -0500
Organization: Time Electronics
Lines: 106
Message-ID: <68g0bh$sb--(at)--gtnsc02.worldnet.att.net>
References:
Reply-To: rich-kar–(at)–orldnet.att.net
NNTP-Posting-Host: 12.68.34.180
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.03Gold (Win95; I)
Xref: geraldo.cc.utexas.edu alt.guitar.amps:78234
dinal–(at)–iowa.campus.mci.net wrote:
>
> Any tips on replacing the baffle board on a silver face Fender with
> glued-in baffle?
My Method for Removing the Baffle from a CBS Type Fender Cabinet.
It’s a lot of work to do it right. First Remove carefully the top piece
of tolex and peel back the sides to expose the corners.
Then using boiling water, soak the inside and outside of one of the top
corners to soften the glue. Apply 3-4 times after it soaks in. Keep at
it, just takes time to soak in and soften the glue. (Note – Do one
corner for a combo cabinet to keep the top joined to one side. Soak
both corners for a speaker cabinet, to later completely remove the top.)
With a large heavy shot loaded dead blow hammer and a piece of 2×4,
place the 2×4 Flat against the top in the corner, and whack the 2×4 with
the hammer. Then do the same thing to the side of the corner. Keep
soaking and whacking till you seperate the corner leaving it joined to
the other side if it is a combo cabinet. For a speaker cabinet,
completely remove the top now.
Now to seperate the baffle from the sides and bottom, I came up with
this method which prevents damage more that many others I’ve tried.
I cut two 2x4s to the inside cab width. I place the amp cabinet face
down centered in the middle of a 4×4 foot piece of 3/4 plywood.
Next, mark the locations of the 2x4s on the plywood and lift the amp cab
off the 2x4s. Using long screws, screw both 2x4s to the plywood. Don’t
spare the screws either.
Place the amp cab back down on the 2x4s as before and screw the Baffle
directly to both 2x4s. Again, don’t spare the screws.
Now with the baffle secured in place, you are free place that small
piece of 2×4 on the inside bottom of the cab. You can stand either
on the 4×4 plywood, or on the baffle itself and whack the 2×4 with the
hammer. Thus directing the force from the hammer blows right to the glue
joints of the sides and bottom of the cab.
Some more boiling water poured inside along the sides and bottom will
softend the glue again as before. Let it soak in, then add a little
more. Then, a little more. Don’t forget the corners too. You don’t
want to risk splitting the sides or bottom at the glue joint!
Keep in mind,.. “Less Damage Means Less Work later!”
Take your time using the hammer and keeping the 2×4 flat inside. Work
the hammer blows from the top down the sides to sort a Peel the sides
and bottom of the baffle as you work your way around it.. Remember, you
want to keep the sides and the bottom connected as one unit. The tolex
will help this happen. This makes putting things back together a lot
less work.
This has been the best method I have come up in my years of Replacing
the Fender baffles from the CBS days.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Rich Koerner,
Time Electronics
http://home.att.net/~rich-karl/